More Corrosion Patching

It was decided ( by the MOT Test Centre ) that some more work should be done on the Defender !

First I attacked the outrigger on the drivers side. This was sound at the top so the new one was modified to slot in and then welded in place.

Rip off old one, prep the obligatory hole in chassis where outrigger was.

Cut template and test fit.

Cut new steel to shape.

Weld in place.

Then add the new outrigger and weld in place.

Paint it up then get it really dirty from grinding and it looks like its been there for years !

Oh, we didn't stop there, oh no. The lovely man at the MOT Centre chalked all the nasty bits with yellow crayon ( they are only allowed crayons ) and even numbered some of them. One of my favourites was an innocuous couple of holes near the front radius arm mounting point. We cut it all off and re-fabbed it.

Here it is hammerited ( is that a word ? ) and painted. I like to use silver Hammerite so that I can then over spray black or red or whatever. Having the refabbed/welded sections silver helps me to see them ! There's four different pieces welded together here. Sorry its muddy, I had to move the Defender to get a trailer out.

There are some minor holes in the bulkhead too which are tricky to and will be addressed after this jigsaw of a section on the chassis at the back. I have cut out the bad stuff which included a section where the rear electrics pass through. I used the circumference of a coke can rolled up to protect the wiring.
I only have one piece tacked in place at the moment and need to get magnets to start fitting up the other sections.

All of the above is very time consuming as I do the work in my driveway so need good weather, this doesn't bother me. What bother me is that all this work is for the MOT so I cant drive the Defender until its done :(

In the left of the above picture you can see that the bump stops are missing. I have new ones to go on but since they were only noted on the MOT test and not fails I may put them on after the test, whenever that may be !

Outrigger Part 1

Got started on replacing the outrigger yesterday. Right away I was faced with stiff opposition as the bolt holding the outrigger onto the bodywork was seized. I ended up shattering a 3/4" socket before resorting to cutting the head off with the grinder.

I then went from this:

To this:

The expected hole in the chassis. It's slightly worse than it looks as half of the top part was also corroded. What you can see in above picture is the top part of the old outrigger which I also removed. Sorry no pic as I was getting into the grinding 'zone' and forgot. I made cardboard templates so that I could cut new 2mm plate.

Here is the redone section with some chassis paint on it to guard against immediate corrosion.

As you can see above I have retianed the bottom part of the old outrigger as this was in good shape. I then had to do some more measuring so that the new outrigger would fit snugly into place. This was the most difficult part.

I was left with a wee gap right at the bottom for which I will have to fit up another small piece of steel and weld in place and there's some weld to go along the top of the rail.

As I moved inside and started to weld I realised something was wrong. The weld looked terrible. I found that I had ran out of shielding gas ! Honestly those wee disposable bottles are useless.

I will grind into the weld here to see how porous it is then redo.

I still have to attach the top outer to the stiffener for which I will do a bracket for the top and maybe for underneath too.

A proper big bottle of gas ordered, however I am back to work so Part 2 may be a while.

Now scroll back up to the first picture then down to the bottom picture - see the difference :)

One I forgot

There have been so many !

I also reolaced the track rod ends, PAS drop arm and the swivel housing seals.

TRE's and the drop arm were straight forward after a vice and stilson were used, the swivel seals were a bit more involved and messier.

I removed the half shafts to gain access from the inside.

Oh, did I mention the rear shocks too. A very easy job. You can see the new outrigger in that box too !

The Next Big Job On The Defender: Outrigger

The next big job will be replacing the N/S bulkhead outrigger. It's badly corroded. Initial attempts to 'get at it' revealed this.

You can see it there under what remains of the footwell panel. This panel will be remade and replaced also. The outrigger does have a hole in the bottom from new but is not supposed to have a big hole in the top !!

Special tools are needed for this job, namely a 4.5" grinder and a welding machine. 

This 130 amp Supermig from Sealey should be fine on 2mm mild steel.

Stay tuned for more rock n roll  :)

Big Big Job On The Land Rover Defender

Recently I had to get a new spring seat welded on, work I could not do myself. The front left leg on the chassis also needed tidied up, ie plated.

This next job should be do able if time consuming.

I'm renewing the brakes discs, calipers and pads and also doing the wheel bearing while I have the discs off.

Step one:

Remove old caliper.

Mine was pretty grotty !!

There was also what looked like a man made hole in the disc housing !

I then set about removing the hub assembly.

Its best to use a 52mm box spanner for the hub nuts, I bought one for much cheapness.

Oh, I also got myself new mud guards as the old ones were just rusty lumps, can you tell the difference ?

Mud guard fitted, what a difference !

Now gents, do not listen to she who must be obeyed. The kitchen is the perfect place for driving out the hub bearing races and tapping the new ones in.

It's then time to put on the new disc.

and carefully refit all the bits...

I now have to fit the calipers and redo some of the brake piping, more to come.

Defender Work

Mucking about making a video of how difflock works, whilst the Defender was jacked up I noticed something bad.

This is the front LH spring seat which has a definite break along it due mostly to corrosion. The breal is on both sides of this seat. The other three seats on the vehicle are sound.
I put the Defender to a local who knows about this sort of thing but was told that the chassis leg was also corroded where the new seat was to be fitted and would require plating. Fortunately a friend recommended someone who has carried out this work before and he managed the job in less than a day.

New seat in place and chassis repaired and painted.

Of course we had to take it out for a wee test drive :)

I nearly forogt, heres the video I made explaining difflock.
In a nutshell the four wheel drive will drive all four wheels.
Without difflock:
If a wheel is off the ground or on a slippy surface it will simply take the power you are delivering and spin.
With difflock:
The front wheels are locked to the rear so their turning speed is locked together.
If a front wheel is slippy or airborne it will not spin unless one of the back wheels is able to spin.
This can be a great help but you can easily get into situations where both front and rear will spin, but it usually means you are having fun :)

Now We Have Wheels !

Whilst out shooting on farmland I know only too well how easy it is to get your vehicle stuck and have to call the farmer to tow you out, quite embarrassing.

People who know me will also know that I have no real interest in cars, except for making sure they are equipped to be useful, e.g. tow bar and roof bars. There is one vehicle that I have always liked though, the Land Rover Defender. I had the privelige of driving various Land Roverss in the 1990's, even driving one over to Germany and back.
Here's a 101 that I used to take home but I was in the back of it once when the driver had a wee accident.

It rolled several times, end to end. 

Here's what we crawled out of:

I digress.

I decided to get myself a Defender 90, something I could drive the fields with, get timber from otherwise inaccessible places.

It's a 1993 Defender 90 with a 2.5 litre 200TDi engine.

Right away there was a list of jobs. So far I have changed the alternator and PAS belts, replaced the window regulator, the fuel tank, rear right indicator, removed the top fog lamps which were on a roof bar and not connected anyway, tied down the batttery in wired in a trip and isolator for the winch, got the diff light working...

There's more stuff to do, but I have alos been out shooting with it. I took the air rifle and the .17 HMR and got two bunnies. I missed with the air rifle and got two with the HMR.

Oh and we have taken it offroad too, we went to Experience 4x4 near Inverness. We did the adventure course a few times then went into the Zone for some serious stuff.

Here's some Adventure footage.

Now then, where's that job list...